Adventures with salmon menus

10/1/14 Cook’s Corner
Betty Kaiser

Great dinner in Fairbanks, Alaska

On a recent trip to the great state of Alaska my husband and I somehow found ourselves on a bus headed outside downtown Juneau to the Macaulay Salmon Hatchery. It was a cold, wet and dreary day as we walked through the inner workings of a hatchery and a series of guides reminded us of the life cycle of salmon.

Depending on your point of view, the scene was inspiring (keeping wild salmon populations going) or rather pathetic. We got there by accident. It was an unplanned stop. Fish hatcheries are not our favorite places to visit. Still, there we were, watching these once lively kings and queens of the waterways languish and die in a man-made fish world so their eggs could be harvested.

Actually, the whole life cycle salmon story makes me feel a bit sad about the lifespan of such a magnificent fish. Salmon eggs hatch in about 3 months and the small fry are swimming at about 5-10 weeks old; they develop finger markings.  Smolts head out to sea between 1-3 years old where they will stay as adults up to 8 years. Then they return to their birthplace, spawn and die within 2 weeks!

We were digesting this bit of biology when there was a commotion at the entrance to the fish ladder. A huge sea lion was leaping from bin to bin and snacking on the salmon as they made their way up the 450-foot ladder to spawn! We visitors were reminded that one of the cycles of life in the real world is that one species feeds another.

Fresh salmon was on every menu at every stop of our two week Alaska visit. Whether in Denali, Anchorage or beyond, one could eat fish morning noon and night, Salmon omelets were a popular breakfast item. Salmon salad on a bun was a tempting luncheon choice and then, of course, there was dinner. Salmon was offered poached, baked, grilled, fried, roasted, brined, glazed and in casseroles. Wild salmon, of course, not farmed.

My favorite salmon entré is always glazed. In other words, sweetened with something like honey, maple syrup, brown sugar or molasses. It sounds simple enough to put together a rub of brown sugar and spices on the fish, grill it and eat it. Oh, but that would be deceptive. No two combinations taste the same. At a salmon bake in Fairbanks’ Pioneer Park I tried to weasel the glaze recipe out of the cooks to no avail. Something about marinating the fish overnight was as close as I could get. Another night and another diner, I heard a waiter say that the secret to their melt in-your mouth glaze was honey!

Along the way, I picked up a couple of recipes of unknown origin that I’m offering in today’s column. If you have a smoker, they tell me that the wet brine works well. The honey marinade is great on salmon in the oven, stovetop or grill. Use more or less as desired and feel free to add other spices. Finally, the salmon pasta is simplicity itself. Add some coleslaw and cornbread and you’ve got a meal. Enjoy!

BROWN SUGAR BRINE

(Enough for about 4 pounds salmon)

4 cups water

1 cup soy sauce

3/4 cup brown sugar

1/4 cup sea salt

1 tablespoon garlic, minced

1 tablespoon finely grated ginger

Wash salmon filets in cold water and pat dry. Cut filets into about 4”X6” pieces. Line them up in a non-reactive container: glass, plastic, stainless steel or large plastic bags.

Mix brining ingredients together in large bowl. Completely cover filets with brine until they float. Set aside any extra brine to use as a last minute glaze. Cover containers and marinate in refrigerator all day or overnight. Before cooking, remove from brine and drain on paper towels. Allow to dry for about an hour. Smoke fish according to your smoker’s manual.

HONEY SALMON MARINADE

3 tablespoons brown sugar, packed

3 tablespoons butter, melted

3 tablespoons vegetable oil

3 tablespoons honey

3 tablespoons soy sauce

1 clove garlic, finely chopped

1 large salmon filet (about 2 pounds) cut into 8 pieces

In a small bowl, mix all ingredients except salmon. Pour marinade over salmon. Cover and marinate 30-60 minutes. Heat coals or gas grill. Remove salmon from marinade. Place salmon, skin side down, on grill. Cover and grill over medium heat 10-20 minutes, brushing periodically with marinade. Fish is done when it flakes easily with fork. Serves 6-8

SMOKED SALMON in CREAMY PASTA

1/4 cup butter

1 tablespoon garlic, minced

1 cups half and half

1 cup whipping cream

4 ounces julienne smoked wild Alaska sockeye salmon

1/2 cup peeled, seeded and chopped tomatoes

2 tablespoons chives

Salt and ground white pepper to taste

8 ounces of linguine or fettuccine

1/2 cup Parmesan cheese, grated

1 tablespoon minced parsley

Sauté garlic in butter about five minutes or until softened. Add half and half and whipping cream; heat to simmer and cook, uncovered, until thickened and reduced to 2-1/2 cups liquid. Add smoked salmon, tomatoes and chives; heat thoroughly over low heat about two minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Cook linguine in boiling water about 10 minutes or until barely tender; drain. Fold hot pasta into cream sauce; place on serving platter and sprinkle with Parmesan cheese and parsley. Makes 4 servings.

Keep it simple and keep it seasonal! 

Betty Kaiser’s Cook’s Corner is dedicated to sharing a variety of recipes 

that are delicious, family oriented and easy to prepare.